Sylvia- How did you get your start as a chef/restauranteur?
I was born on the Texas-Mexico border in Brownsville, which naturally started my interest and love of Tex-Mex cuisine, but as I got older, I became more interested in not just eating it (though that hasn’t waned). Here was a whole genre of food, flavors and taste unique to one area. That took me to the University of Texas where I graduated with a B.S. in Home Economics. My first job out of college was as a home economist with Uncle Ben’s Rice where I stayed for 10 years, learning about the science of food, working in laboratories, developing new products, supervising taste panels and conducting “sensory evaluations.” I then went into food sales, during which, I would go into the kitchens, meet with the owners and chefs and see their operations in a new light. That’s about the time a light went off, and I decided owning a restaurant was a better fit than just working with them.
You’re known as the “Enchilada Queen” and have around 17 different enchiladas. I know this may be like asking someone who their favorite child is, but do you have a Swoonworthy favorite?
If I told you one today, I would probably tell you another one tomorrow. It’s like walking into your closet and saying this is my absolute favorite dress. The weather, your mood, your company or the time of day can determine what you really crave. Sometimes it’s just a simple cheese enchilada with chili gravy or one filled with Mexican vegetables like squash and corn, topped with a light cream sauce. Sometimes it’s something more exotic, like chicken enchiladas topped with my mole poblano sauce or stacked enchiladas topped with a fried egg. What I’m saying is I would never be able to make up my mind to name just one. And just to make that point, two of the most asked for plates we sell are combination plates. One has four enchiladas representing areas north of the border and the other has four from Mexico. It tells me I’m not the only one who can’t decide.
I was told you teach a really fun cooking class, is that true and if so can you tell us about them?
I teach cooking classes Saturday afternoons throughout the year at the Eldridge location, usually several per month and will admit they are one of the best parts of my work. The classes are very intimate and hands-on and in a classroom setting. My classes on tamales are the most popular, almost always selling out, but I also have classes on desserts, backyard grilling, soups and, of course, enchiladas. They truly give me the opportunity to educate people not just about how to prepare food, but the history, heritage and family lore behind what they’re making. We have all our classes on our website so it’s easy to find one you’re interested in and sign up.
I saw you recently wrote a book. What is it called and how do you like being an author?
The Enchilada Queen Cookbook (St. Martin’s Griffin, $27.98) is truly the fulfilment of a dream I have had for many years. I wrote it with the help of Dallas food writer Dotty Griffith, and it was released in November of 2016. I’m thrilled at how well it has done and just recently went to Los Angeles to accept an award for it being named winner in the cookbook category in the 2017 International Latino Book Awards. That was amazing. It has about 80 recipes for enchiladas, fajitas, breakfast dishes and classic side dishes based on the ones that madres and abuelas have passed down from one generation to the next in the border towns along the Rio Grande. I included a list of resources for finding ingredients like Mexican spices and dried chilies if they’re not readily available, and also discuss flavor-changing tricks, shortcuts and techniques for making the Tex-Mex dishes popular at my restaurants.
Finally- I know your Eldridge location flooded. How are you all doing now?
To my relief, the Eldridge location is recovering much more quickly than I thought it would. Remarkably, and with a lot of help, we were able to get everything torn out, replaced and reopened in just over two weeks. However, what happened to us was even worse for a lot of the neighborhoods and businesses all around us, meaning a lot of the businesspeople and residents who are our regulars are still working their way back. We are getting a lot of new customers, however, and it’s always exciting to see people we know were forced out to suddenly come through the door again.
